Help sourcing Casio MT-400V potentiometer


#1

I have a Casio MT-400V with an electrically broken 50kb linear slide potentiometer (the filter cutoff, kinda important!).
The Syntaur store has a potentiometer that is brand new and of the exact size and footprint I need (part# 4005):


But this is the wrong resistance value.
I am wondering if anyone can identify the manufacturer or better yet the line of potentiometers and if it is possible to source other values from the same place that Syntaur managed to find these 10kb pots new from. Digikey is flat out of anything close to these things.

Thank you for any help!
(Edit: Or if Syntaur can source them I’ll buy them through you guys, of course! :slight_smile: )


#2

This slide pot has the same pin configuration, and is a 50KB pot with 30mm travel:

The shaft is a little different, so I’m not sure if it will be the perfect fit in that regard. It has a 20mm shaft, with a tapered end. If you need it shorter, it is easy to cut with wire cutters, and you can also file it a bit if you need to make the top narrower to fit the slider knob.

I’d love to know the outcome!


#3

That’s great! I might just swap out the shaft of the old pot with the shaft on that pot! Thank you very much :slight_smile:


#4

Package arrived in the mail!
In fact the slider is a little bit longer than the one it is replacing, however the final verdict is that with a little bit of elbow grease, it works just fine!

After swapping out the (perfectly compatible) wiper with the one from the MT-400, I also swapped the retainer with the stabilizing legs into the bottom of the new pot. Really illustrates the size difference. My thinking was to put the stabilizing legs at the bottom of the pot, where the cutoff is set to zero. This way when the wiper runs to the top of the slider, the post hits the case just before reaching the top of the slider. However since there is also a “sustain” knob which boosts the top of the cutoff higher, I figure that the loss here is less great than if you were to lose the ability to put the slider all the way to 0. When I had the filter fully open, switching between filtered and non-filtered sound had a very slight, what I would call trivial difference.

To compensate for the length of the new part, I stripped some solid-core wire and bent it around the top leg of the slider. Then bent it so that it would fit the footprint of the original slider.
Though this is technically a compromise and not a 100% perfect replacement, I personally am 100% happy with this fix as I believe it to be close enough (someone operating it fully closed up without looking at the guts inside would have no idea that a repair or modification has been made).

Thank you for your suggestion and hopefully this can help someone out in the future!

NOTE: I originally made this post with inline images but the forum wouldn’t let me post it due to being too new a member for that many pictures/links. Here is a link to the gallery instead:
https://postimg.cc/gallery/106qau1ty/